Berev Dzez!
I hope things are going well for everyone back home. I’m sorry I haven’t been able to post more often, but I only have Internet once or twice a week. I will do my best though!
Anyway, things in Armenia are great. We arrived here safely last Friday to a grandois welcome ceremony in Yerevan (the capital) and it has been non-stop ever since. We had an initial three days at training in a old camp in Vanadzor (in the mountains up north) which was very nice – indoor plumbing, etc 😉 Last Friday we moved in with our host families, and I am living in a village called Bazum, which has a population of about 1,200 people. I live with one woman, a 50 year old widow named Layly, and she is absolutely marvelous. Armenia is beautiful, the food is great, and the people are so incredibly nice. For those of you who want the short version, I’ll stop here, but if you want the full story, click this post’s title (Berev Dzez) or below to read the rest. If you’re not reading on – why not? you’ll miss the pictures! - but otherwise take care.
Thanks for reading on! Ok, first of all, Vanadzor and Armenia. As you can see below, Armenia (Hyastan, as they call it) is absolutely beautiful. Vanadzor is situated in the mountains and reminds me a lot of Colorado. While the time there was a lot of administrivia, I did get some hiking in. The first picture below is from my balcony outside my room, and the second is from the deck of the abandoned school across the way (look closely on the left of the first picture).
On Friday I moved in with my host Mother, Layly, who has been a great host. She takes incredibly good care of me, and although my bed is wayyyyyyyyy to small, the house is great. We have electricity 24/7, and have a phone (please email me if you want to call). I do brush my teeth/wash hands/do dishes, etc from an ever-running hose fed by the river, and use an outhouse, but it could be worse. Here are some pictures of my pad – I think I could have it a lot worse 😉 I also live with a dog, Bobbie, four host hens and one host rooster. Unfortunately the cow recently passed away.
We are in class about 4-5 hours a day, mostly in language classes. It is very intensive but I am picking up Armenian very quickly and would be happy to teach anyone when we get back. If you can handle a completely different sounding, 1500 year old, 39 character language, then I’ll be happy to teach you. Although it’s not as bad as it sounds!
I will be here until August 14th, and I will move on to my full time site for the next two years. I already love Bazum and my friends here. The other families are so hospitable, and will not let you enter or leave their house without eating or drinking something. It’s truly remarkable and inspiring, especially in that they really don’t act like they live in “poverty”. Their friendliness and outlook on life is something to strive for. While all of their possessions are from the “good times” – during the Soviet era – they are still waiting for the day when things will once again flourish. If I do my job right, hopefully that’ll come sooner rather than later.
To wrap up – Armenia rocks! I hope some of you will be able to come and share it with me over the next two years; I promise, you will love it too! I will try and update a little more now that I’m on a more regular schedule, so check back often. I miss you all – take care!
Hadgoh!
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6 Responses:
June 14th, 2006 at 5:47 pm
Barev Kyle,
Sounds like you’re enjoying Vanadzor. It’s my original hometown. My husband and I spent most of last year in Armenia while we were writing our book about Armenian culture and cuisine. Now we’re back in the US.
One thing, some advice for you and your Peace Corps associates. Tell everyone that no matter how scarce the water service is in your host homes, be sure to keep up the personal hygiene and bathe! I’m telling you this because Peace Corps volunteers have a bad reputation in Vanadzor for, well, frankly, smelling awful. Don’t laugh, because it’s true. Last year a female Peace Corps member, from the US, apparently just quit bathing, and smelled so badly, she was asked to leave one of the Internet clubs there in Vanadzor, and to stay away. They just couldn’t stand her body odor. Word gets around fast in Vanadzor, and the story about the stinky Peace Corps got around. Strange, but true, so you’ve been warned.
Just south of Vanadzor is an old Soviet-era botanical park and a nice picnic area along one of the tributaries of the Debed River. Check it out if you get the chance. You can read about our Armenian khorovats barbecue party that we had there in my blog, http://www.armenianfood.blogspot.com
Good luck and best wishes to you and all the other Peace Corps crew.
Irina Petrosian
P.S. One of the reasons that people in Armenia refer to Soviet times as the “good times” is that there was at least some rule-of-law at that time. Now oligarch-capitalism and corruption have no limits in Armenia. The crooks and officials-on-the-take don’t worry at all about any law enforcement. The next time you see a traffic cop pull over a car, see if you can observe the discrete passing of money from the driver to the officer, usually done in an quick handshake. And be sure to check out the mayor of Vanadzor in his white leisure suits. My husband, David, said that when he met him in a shop, he was reminded of Joe Pesci. Try not to laugh out loud when you see him.
June 14th, 2006 at 6:20 pm
P.P.S. Kyle, the first edition of ARMENIAN FOOD: FACT, FICTION & FOLKLORE is sold in Yerevan at the ArtBridge Cafe and the Tourist Center just north of Victory Square. Here’s the http://www.ArmeniaNow.com review:
http://www.armenianow.com/?action=viewArticle&AID=1120
Anush!
June 15th, 2006 at 1:43 am
Kyle,
It’s so great to hear about your host family and life abroad – I check the website every day for new postings! I look forward to hearing more and seeing more photos (though the photos on this post aren’t showing up??). Take care of yourself (and don’t take advantage of your host mom – you can do your own laundry!). 🙂
Love, Erin
June 18th, 2006 at 4:49 am
Hey Bud,
Glad to hear your doing well, not that I expected anything less! Have fun and for gods sake don’t quit showering! 🙂 Enjoy yourself bud, BJ
June 19th, 2006 at 5:07 am
Although I was born and raised in Armenia, I never went to Vanadzor! I got very surprised when you said Vanadzor reminded you of Colorado. I live in Colorado! Sometimes Boulder reminds me of Vayotz Dzor too!
June 11th, 2008 at 12:57 am
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